At a glance
| Water | Saltwater (and freshwater) |
|---|---|
| Mollusk | Akoya, Pinctada maxima and Pinctada margaritifera oysters; GIA also accepts freshwater mussels |
| Where | Wherever akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls are cultured |
| Typical size | Small; South Sea and Tahitian keshi are larger than akoya keshi |
| Shapes | Mostly baroque |
| How it starts | No bead: a by-product of bead culturing |
| Growing time | Forms by accident during culturing |
Keshi pearls are a happy accident. They form in cultured pearl oysters without a bead, as a by-product of the culturing process, and they are mainly solid nacre like natural pearls (GIA).
The word comes from the Japanese for "poppy seed." It was first used for tiny natural seed pearls of 1 to 3 mm and later for these culture by-products (GIA).
How keshi form
The exact cause is not fully understood. One theory is that the oyster rejects the bead nucleus but keeps the piece of mantle tissue, which goes on making nacre. Keshi can also form when displaced cells start a new pearl alongside a bead-nucleated one (GemGuide).
Because there is no bead, a keshi pearl is almost entirely nacre, which is why the best ones have such strong luster.
Which oysters
Under CIBJO rules, keshi come from saltwater pearl oysters: akoya (Pinctada fucata), silver- or gold-lipped (Pinctada maxima) and black-lipped (Pinctada margaritifera). GIA also accepts freshwater mussels as a source (GemGuide). South Sea and Tahitian keshi became popular because they are larger than akoya keshi.
A naming note
CIBJO considers the word "keshi" on its own misleading and recommends saying "keshi cultured pearl." GIA does not use the term on its pearl reports (GIA). A keshi is a cultured pearl, not a natural one, even though it has no bead.
What people paid for keshi pearls
Real prices readers paid, not estimates. A figure appears only once at least 5 people have reported the same kind of piece, and we never show individual reports.
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Frequently asked questions
What are keshi pearls?
Bead-free pearls that form by accident in cultured pearl oysters. They are mainly solid nacre and are classed as cultured pearls.
What does keshi mean?
Poppy seed, in Japanese. The word was first used for tiny natural seed pearls and later for culture by-products.
Are keshi pearls natural?
No. They grow without a bead, but in oysters that people cultured. CIBJO recommends calling them keshi cultured pearls.
Questions from readers
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Sources
- GIA Gems & Gemology: Internal structures of Pinctada maxima pearls (Fall 2021)
- GemGuide: Gem Focus, keshi pearls (November 2021)
Checked October 22, 2026. How we check our facts.