- Know the type you want. Freshwater, akoya, Tahitian or South Sea set the price range more than anything. See types of pearls.
- Ask: imitation, cultured or natural? The FTC suggests asking exactly this, and getting the answer in writing.
- Ask whether the color is natural. Many pearls are dyed; bleaching is routine (GIA). Treatments should be disclosed. See pearl treatments.
- Check luster in daylight. Look for sharp, bright reflections. GIA grades luster from Excellent to Poor.
- Check the surface. A few small marks are normal; GIA uses Clean to Heavily Spotted.
- Roll the strand. Round pearls roll smoothly; lopsided ones wobble.
- Check matching. Pearls in a strand or pair should look alike in size, color and luster.
- Look at the drill holes for chipped or peeling nacre or coating.
- Compare sellers. The FTC suggests comparing prices and checking an unfamiliar seller with the Better Business Bureau or your state attorney general.
- Keep the paperwork. Read the return policy, and for online orders keep copies of the pages showing what you bought.
For anything sold as natural, ask for a report from a recognized gem lab.
