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The Perfect Pearls

How are pearls made?

A pearl is made by a living mollusk, an oyster, mussel, clam or snail, coating something inside its body with layer after layer of material. For most jewelry pearls that material is nacre, the same shiny substance that lines the inside of the shell.

Natural pearls

GIA describes natural pearls as forming around a microscopic irritant in the bodies of certain mollusks. The FTC's definition says a natural pearl forms in response to an irritant or an abnormal physiological condition, with no human involvement. No one knows in advance which animal will make one, which is why natural pearls are rare.

Cultured pearls

People start the process on purpose. A nucleus, usually a sphere of shell, is placed inside the mollusk or its mantle, and the mollusk coats it with nacre (FTC). Some cultured pearls, including most freshwater pearls, start from a small piece of tissue instead of a bead, so they are almost solid nacre (GIA).

Pearl Mollusk Pearls per animal Time to grow
Akoya Pinctada fucata oyster Usually one at a time 10 to 24 months
Tahitian Pinctada margaritifera oyster One About 18 to 24 months
South Sea Pinctada maxima oyster One Often 2 to 4 years
Freshwater Hyriopsis mussels Several in one cycle Not stated by GIA

All from GIA.

Do all oysters make pearls?

No. The pearls in jewelry come from particular pearl oysters and mussels. Some other mollusks make pearls that are not nacreous at all, such as the conch, melo and quahog, and these have a porcelain-like surface instead of a nacre glow (GIA).

How long does it take?

From about 10 months for some akoyas to 2 to 4 years for South Sea pearls. At Lake Kasumigaura in Japan, cultured pearls grow for about 3.5 to 4 years and build nacre about 3 mm thick (GIA).

What a pearl is made of

Calcium carbonate, plus organic material that binds the layers (FTC, GIA). Read what pearls are made of.

Sources

Frequently asked questions

How are pearls formed?

A mollusk coats something inside its body with layers of nacre. Natural pearls form around a microscopic irritant without human help; cultured pearls start when a person inserts a bead or a piece of tissue.

Do all oysters have pearls?

No. Pearls come from particular oysters and mussels, and natural pearls are rare even in those.

How long does it take an oyster to make a pearl?

For cultured pearls, from about 10 to 24 months for akoyas to 2 to 4 years for South Sea pearls (GIA).

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