The common kinds
- Glass: glass beads coated to look like pearls. They can feel as heavy and as cool as real pearls, so weight and temperature tests can be fooled (Jewelry Business, Jewelers Mutual).
- Coated shell beads: beads of shell coated to look like pearls. Under 10x magnification the coating usually looks grainy (Jewelry Business).
- Plastic: often noticeably light for their size.
How to spot them
- Magnify the surface. A grainy, speckled or glittery look points to an imitation.
- Check the drill hole for a thin coating that peels, flakes or bunches up.
- Look for perfect sameness. Imitation strands are often perfectly matched with no variation in overtone.
Step through these in the real or fake pearl checker, or read the full guide on how to tell if pearls are real.
What sellers must call them
The FTC's Jewelry Guides define an imitation pearl as a manufactured product, of any material, that simulates the appearance of a pearl or cultured pearl (16 CFR 23.19). The Guides also cover misuse of the word "pearl" and terms such as "real" and "synthetic" (16 CFR 23.20 to 23.21). If a listing just says "pearls" with no detail and a very low price, ask whether they are imitation, cultured or natural, as the FTC suggests.
Are fake pearls bad?
Not at all, as long as you know what you are buying. Imitations can be pretty, inexpensive and practical for everyday or costume wear. The problem is only when an imitation is sold as a pearl.
