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The Perfect Pearls

How labs test pearls

Two questions need a lab: is this pearl natural or cultured, and is its color natural. GIA X-rays every pearl it tests.

X-ray microradiography

GIA calls microradiography the most reliable non-destructive way of seeing the internal structure of pearls, and says it can also help separate natural-color from treated-color pearls.

What the X-rays show

Nacre is denser to X-rays than organic material and voids, so it shows up lighter in the image. Cultured pearls often show telltale features: a bead nucleus, voids, or linear structures. Natural pearls more often show small, irregular growth structures. The separation is not always straightforward, and when results are unclear, micro-CT scanning gives the best data (GIA).

Detecting treatments

  • Dye: a gemologist can detect dyed pearls in most cases (GIA). Dye can collect in the drill hole and in pits or cracks (Jewelry Business).
  • Bleaching: routine and, for one-step bleaching, virtually impossible to detect (GIA).
  • "Chocolate" pearls: GIA identified bleached Tahitian cultured pearls using UV fluorescence, spectroscopy and trace elements.

When to get a report

  • Before paying a natural-pearl price.
  • For golden South Sea or dark pearls where natural color matters.
  • To settle an inheritance or insurance question.

Sources

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